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Argentina
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Madonna may have immortalized it in pop culture terms with that song in Evita, but this city lived in the imaginations of many long before Hollywood got a hold of it, and the romantic notions it conjures will survive long after the movie goes into the vault. Even the name Buenos Aires has an air about it: More...
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La Recoleta Cemetery Calle Junín 1760 (Recoleta) Tel. +54 (11) 4804.7040 In a city of rapid changes, this monument to the notable deceased – from famous musicians to Eva Peron – is the literal example of the city’s respect for its historical identity. Just three short blocks from the Alvear Palace, La Recoleta is the Manhattan of cemeteries. Don’t expect Evita’s mausoleum to be the most ostentatious, but do expect to wait among a queue of admirers to take an unobstructed picture of the glamorous darling. Buy a professional map in the front and take a self-guided walking tour of this "active necropolis" that American poet Robert Lowell called "hundreds of one-room Roman temples."
MALBA Avenida Figuroa Alcorta 3415 Tel. +54 (11) 4808.6500 www.malba.org.ar Who says Latin America doesn’t produce world class fine art? This light and spacious gallery features works by Fabian Marcaccio, Frida Kahlo, and excellent temporary displays.
Teatro Colón Cerrito 618 Tel. +54 (11) 4378.7312 www.teatrocolon.org.ar Tours of this historic theater are available everyday. It opened in 1908 (with a production of Verdi’s Aida) and is now one of the most famous opera houses in the world. Located in the heart of the city, it stages shows year round, though restoration has slowed the performance schedule. May 2008 will mark its 100th anniversary. Note: The Theater will be closed for much of 2006 and 2007.
Museo Nacional de Belles Artes Avenida Del Libertador 1473 Tel. +54 (11)4803.0802 www.mnba.org Opened in 1896, Argentina’s National Museum of Fine Arts showcases artifacts dating from the 12th century, along with the work of Argentine and European artists from the 19th and 20th centuries. While the museum houses an extensive collection of European greats from Cezanne to Van Gogh, the highlight is the Argentine collection, with works from major artists over the last five centuries.
Graffitimundo www.graffitimundo.com Buenos Aires revels in it's street art like no other city. Graffiti is a big thing here in bringing new artists to the attention of the masses. Graffitimundo has organized tours that take you to neighborhoods like Villa Crespo where new and rising artists paint their there way to success.
La Bombonera Brandsen 805 Tel. +54 (11) 4309.4700 Superclásico. This match between Boca Juniors and River Plate in Buenos Aires is often cited as one of the top 50 sporting events you must attend before you die. The rivalry is intense, with passionate atmosphere that is unrivaled. For tickets, check with your hotel concierge. Keep in mind that visiting team fans get a 30 minute head start to leave after the match.
Cabana Las Lilas Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo 516 Tel. +54 (0) 11.4313.1336 www.laslilas.com You really came to Buenos Aires for the beef. This may be the most "touristy" place in Buenos Aires, but so many deem their T-Bone second to none that the touristy aspect can’t hold you back. The skirt steak is excellent. Sit out back and people-watch portside. Enjoy delicious appetizers and ask the staff which Malbec will pair best with your steak.
Miranda Costa Rica 5602 Tel. +54 (11) 4771.4255 www.parrillamiranda.com Another no frills steak place but this one features a cool and hip decor. The loft like space manges to feel cozy thanks to potted plants and wall textiles.
Brasserie Petanque Defensa 596 Tel. +54.11.4342.7930 www.brasseriepetanque.com Parisian comfort food come to Buenos Aires in San Telmo area. Always a buzz!
Puerto Viejo Pedro de Mendoza 2103 (La Boca) Tel. +54 (0) 11.4301.0090 This is one fine and unpretentious parilla (steakhouse) that is close enough to the Camanito that it’s easy for tourists to find, but far enough (just two blocks away along the water) to be a local hangout. Visit in the afternoon, and you’ll dine amongst the Porteño (native of Buenos Aires) lunch crowd. The delicious and tender Medallon de lomo is worth trying.
Piegari and Piegari Vitello e Dolce At Avenida 9 de Julio (Recoleta) Tel. +51 (0) 11.4328.4104 Head to La Recova, a cluster of fashionable restaurants located under a previously derelict highway overpass where you’ll find these delightful Italian restaurants right across the street from each other. At the former, a more formal restaurant, you’ll find giant portions (made for sharing) of excellent Italian cuisine, from homemade pasts to veal scallops, along with an eight page wine list. The latter is a more casual parrilla, offering some of the same Italian dishes but incorporating a variety of local meat and seafood.
La Biela Avenue Quintana 596 (Recoleta) Tel.+54 (0) 11.4804.0449 After seeing the cemetery and Eva Peron’s mausoleum, head to La Biela for a light bite and some great people-watching. Opened in 1850, this sidewalk café became a favorite haunt for Argentinean racecar drivers, whose pictures reside on the walls today.
LaDorita Humboldt 1905 & 1892 Tel. +54 (0) 11.4773.0070 www.parrillaladorita.com.ar This Argentine barbeque has been around for years; its great food keeps the locals coming back.
Havanna www.havanna.com.ar With two locations on Calle Florida and 46 others throughout the city, this dessert café offers you plenty of chances to enjoy a delicious dulce de leche cookie sandwich with an espresso. Teenage waiters in army fatigues embolden a theme of revolutionary Cuba. Boxes of these delicious dulce de leche (dulce de leche is the national sweet) sandwiches can be bought at the cafes or at the duty free shops at Eziza airport.
Jardin Japones Restaurant Avenida Casares 2966 Tel. +54 (0) 11.4800.1322 www.jardinjapones.org.ar Have some of South America’s Japanese cuisine at this restaurant in the city’s own Japanese gardens. Rumor has it that their sushi and sashimi rivals that of Nobu in New York. No comment on that one, but the food is exquisite all the same. Arrive early to stroll across the charming bridges and among the bamboo and fish ponds of the garden.
Dorrego Between Libertador y Cerviño Tel: +54.11. 6775.2222 http://www.dorregobuenosaires.com.ar Local designer Pablo Chiappori has transformed a disused 1915 railway station down a dark and lonely street into BA’s hottest destination. The retro, ultra-white restaurant hosts a sexy dimly lit aubergine lounge, and the former ticket booth is now the bar, which serves incredible frozen Bellinis and Mojitos, which complements chef Rodrigo Toso’s modern Argentine fare.
Tegui Costa Rica 5852 Tel. +54 (11) 5291.3333 www.tegui.com.ar Week end and late night dinner (around midnight) bring Portenos (locals) to this glam dining venue on the outskirts of Palermo
Sottovoce Libertador 1098 Tel. +54 (11) 4807.6691 www.sottovoceristorante.com.ar Like the Japanese have flooded Sao Paulo so to have the Italians come to Buenos Aires. About a million by the early 20th century. What they've brought is great pasta and ice cream (gelati). Sottovoce is your classic Italian family restaurtant where you'll get great service.
Galerías Pacífico Calle Florida 750 (at the corner of Cordoba & Florida) Tel. +54.11.5555.5110 http://www.galeriaspacifico.com.ar/
El Conventillo Verde Magallenes 890 (La Boca) Tel. +54 (11) 4301.0666 El Conventillo Verde is a corrugated metal gallery, with a few tables at which to sip mate. Soft music plays and sunlight streams into the cozy space. Upstairs, you can peruse and purchase reasonably priced abstract and landscape paintings of a striking variety.
Sunday Flea Market Pasaje Giuffre to Plaza Dorrego (San Telmo) This flea market – stretching from Pasaje Giuffra to Plaza Dorrego – is the perfect Sunday excursion. Vendors cordially offer sips of their mate as you peruse their goods. You’ll find leather, silver, and the usual hippy fare of necklaces and earrings here.
Humawaca El Salvador 4692 Palermo Viejo Tel. +54 (11) 4832.2662 www.humawaca.com Red hot innovative designs meet a traditional Argentinean leather look at this boutique, which features sherbet-colored pouches and hand bags made from natural cowhide and cow skin. There is no doubting the Argentinean design connection here.
Bolivia Gurruchaga 1581 Palermo Viejo Tel. +54 (11) 4832.6284 www.boliviaonline.com.ar This very fashionable men's clothing store is unique because the clothes are mostly designed by the shop’s owner, Gustavo Samuelian. Everything is done in playful contrasts such as a green corduroy blazer lined with sky blue and white polka dots. He also sells vintage military clothes from Argentina, America, England and Germany.
Alicia Muniz Arenales 1239 Tel. +54 (11) 4815.5690 This shop, on a small Recoleta alley, specializes in sexy tango shoes. The shoes are strictly stiletto, heels that are at least 3 inches in height.
Calma Chicha Honduras 4925 Tel. +54 (11) 4831.1816
www.calmachicha.com If you’re looking for top quality leather rugs, this is the place. Their rugs are made up of patches of leather, in their natural state or dyed in brilliant colors. The best part: they cost a fraction of what they would anywhere else in the world.
La Casa de las Botas Paraguay 5062 Tel. +54 (11) 4776.0762 www.casadelasbotas.com.ar There is nowhere better in the world to buy exquisitely handcrafted riding boots than in the Argentine capital. The store's vast range, from jodhpur boots to polo boots, are stitched on site, and made to order if the leather of your preferred style is not in the right shade or nap. (From $600)
Embrace Argentina http://www.embraceargentina.com/eng/index.html Whether you need a quick city tour, private guide or maybe a day trip out of the city Embrace Argentina is our choice.
Official Buenos Aires Tourism Site www.bue.gov.ar/home/index.php?lang=en Read this clean, easy and professional guide before you go. It is a helpful resource, complete with excellent downloadable tourism guides and travel distances to major cities around the world.
Quick City Info www.easybuenosairescity.com This no-frills site has practical information on getting around Buenos Aires and a basic introduction to Buenos Aires culture.
Gay City Guide
www.thegayguide.com.ar Buenos Aires has become a gay destination of choice in South America. The lawyer in his twenties who started and runs this easy to use site continuously updates it with day trip and tourism ideas for gay and straight alike. It includes a current listing of gay nightlife.
Tango Information www.tangodata.gov.ar/ingles The government’s official tango site. You read that right: an official tango site. How Argentinean.
Buenos Aires Subte (Metro) www.subte.com.ar Riding in an unmarked taxi can be unsafe. Getting around Buenos Aires is fast and easy on the subte (metro).
What's Up Buenos Aires www.whatsupbuenosaires.com Biglingual guide to the city's arts, music and cultural offerings.
Thelonious Club Salguero 1884 Tel. +54 (11) 4829.1562 www.theloniousclub.com.ar Live music is big in Buenos Aires and this is one of the clubs where your likely to catch new artists like Fernando Tarres (he incorporates video and computer generated sounds into his new art music)
Plaza Dorrego Bar Calle Defensa 1098 (San Telmo) Tel. +54 (0) 11.4361.0141 Fun waiters, pictures of tango deity Carlos Gardel and antique signs give this place a kind of old-time authenticity that may be surprising considering its central location on the tourist map. (Their oddly translated slogan is "Timeless ageless, the date you can’t miss!") Established in 1891, it was the first bar in Buenos Aires, and maintains that simple charm. The menu offers a good selection of beers and coffees, that come served with peanuts or shortbread cookies. The patio is the perfect place to spend a warm afternoon.
Origen Bar Humberto Primo 599 (San Telmo) Have an espresso and cheesecake at this Scandinavian-looking coffee shop. The textural art on the walls and the mixed crowd of hip students and elegant older couples gives the place an eclectic, relaxed feel while the crystals dangling in the window add character.
Salon Canning Avenida Scalabrine Ortiz 1331 (Palermo) Tel. +54 (11) 4342.4794 This is one of the best milongas in Buenos Aires, and one of the few open on Monday nights. It is tango tradition. Sit and watch tango at various speeds, or hop in and try to keep up with the natives.
Opera Bay Cecilia Grierson 225 Puerto Madero Neighborhood: Puerto Madero Tel. +54 11 4315 8666 www.operabay.com.ar This club used to be called El Divino at one point in time. Today, it is the most posh disco in the city, with 3 dancefloors and a Sushi bar. Outside the club, on the patio, you can catch Latin music while inside the DJs play house. Every Wednesday, there's a party from 8p-2a. The Argentinians are world-famous for their partying ways; on the weekends, the club is forced to shut at 5a.
La Virtua Armenian Cultural Center Armenia 1366 Tel. +54 (11) 4774.6357 www.lavirutatango.com If you’re into tango, or want to be into tango, this club in the basement of the Armenian Cultural Center is the place to take some lessons. Beginner classes are at 10:30 pm on Fridays and Saturdays, and 9:30 pm on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. Best of all, after the classes the party goes until 6:00 am.
Bulnes Class Bulnes 1250 Tel. +54 (11) 4861.7492 www.bulnesclass.com.ar This is the place where a young gay male crowd comes looking for something more relaxed than the usual mad nightclubs on weekend nights (Thursdays to Sunday from 11:00 pm on).
Esquina Carlos Gardel Carlos Gardel 3200 Tel. +54 (11) 4867.6363
www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar Begin the evening here with dinner and a movie on the evolution of Tango. At 10:30 pm the real fun begins when tango dancers, vocalists and other performers take the stage.
Zizek At the Niceto Club on Wed from Midnight Palermo Niceto Vega 5510 Tel. 54.11.4779.9396 www.whatsupbuenosaires.com/zizek
Bahrein Lavalle 345 www.bahreinba.com This century old down town building has a very popular Tuesday night drum and bass party.
Lim y Novak Godoy Cruz y Guemes Tel. 54.11.4773-7521 www.kimynovak.blogspot.com A drag queen friendly bar in Palermo
Write a review
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Sep 06, 2006
Ron Davis
Bridgeport, Conn.
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Buenos Aires Great in Winter too!
Everybody is friendly in BA, it seems, but this is especially true in the low-season months of August and September, when the city relishes its off-season visitors. Even though it is winter, temps still get into the low 60's! La Faena is a marvel of a modern hotel, and the Alvear is a classic not to be missed.
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